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In this Discussion
- Bandit1119 October 2018
- Dinascar October 2018
- ElementalStables October 2018
- Ellesmere022 October 2018
- FallenShadows714 October 2018
- GeneverGinger October 2018
- kintara October 2018
- Lallyhop October 2018
- Prancer October 2018
- Ren October 2018
- RubyJoFarm October 2018
- TrueBlueHorses October 2018
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What are the guidelines/cut-offs for a successful breeding program?
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Hey guys,
I've been playing for just over 18 months now, and it was only until April this year that the manner of which I was running my breeding program evolved or matured. This went from randomly breeding horses to seeing what colour would result or the longest colour name and culling all snips, to now evenly breeding horses under somewhat strict guidelines, and keeping the best performing snips.
The guidelines I am mainly using is PT Scores, I have predetermined cut-offs depending on the generation #, and if a horse fails to meet it I cull them and keep those that do (both intact and snipped). Also using BA/SBA, WF Gene, Competition records and Earnings.
I tend not to use Breeding Inspection, because I don't have enough funds to test all my horses, that and I don't really understand the terms (constantly having to refer to it in FAQ)
I feel like this isn't enough to produce successful horses within my breeding program, my question is 'What should I really be using as criteria or cut-offs for a successful breeding program?'
Thanks,
TBH"A stud designed to breed horses suitable for the High Country, the Show Ring, and anything this Great Southern land throws in its way"
ID: 21614 -
PT scores are an indication of how a horse will perform in shows, but it's totally separate from a horse's breeding ability.
Unfortunately for your hb wallet, Breeding Inspection is really the best way to figure out how your horses will breed.
If you poke around, you'll see that lots of people have horses with terrible PT but good breeding ability, and vice versa! So PT testing is a great way to determine if you should keep a snipped horse for showing, but it doesn't tell you anything about whether a horse will produce good foals.
If I'm short on funds, I use Breeding Inspection on horses I am thinking about keeping to breed, to see if they are worth it, and only PT test them if they fail BA or paper poorly, to decide whether to keep them for showing or send them to auction.
All that means -- if you want to improve the quality of your horses, the only guaranteed way to know the quality is by papering them through breeding inspection. You can make progress by breeding evenly, but you may be breeding horses that deserve to be snipped and you'll have no way to know.
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Genever is completely right, Breeding Inspection is the best way to ensure your “keeper” breeders will further your line positively. An example is, in my Splash M line I have a C papered foundation and I breed him to yellow papered foundation mares. Every so often, I will get a foal that passes SBA but papers C/yellow. That’s an automatic snip in my barn, and I would never know the foal hadn’t progressed in paper levels without using the breeding inspection. I also only allow B/red papers in my second and third gens for most genes. Again, I would have no idea my fourth gens are A/blue without using breeding inspection (the only exceptions are my snowflake line, I will allow 4th gen reds).
PT scores determine how long a horse trains before leveling out, and how high up the show levels a horse will climb. A lot of people like to see their PT scores improve with each generation, but it really does not have an impact on breeding ability (except in the few cases that a horse is so inconsistent it is snipped by BA/SBA).
When looking at culling and snipping for show barn, I tend to do all the testing available for my studs, even comp testing some of them. The ones that do not meet my requirements (STS, preferred genes, good PT for improving the line) get snipped for the show barn no matter what. My mares I’m a little more lenient on when I’m just starting out with a new generation. I also breed drafts, so any that are not born at a draft weight get snipped or sold (mares and studs). I tend to try to keep all my snips, because the lower PT horses tend to stay at show levels that they compete well at while your higher PT horses race up the show levels and don’t have time to show well until they get closer to leveling out. So keeping a wind range of PT scores in the show barn can be a good thing.Thanked by 1TrueBlueHorses -
What's even more interesting in regards to showing is that since PT indicates how long they will train, not how well, you can actually at times have a higher PT level off in a bad spot and make way less than a lower PT in the end. @HunterUnderSaddleGirl is doing a fascinating study of this right now.
http://hj2.huntandjump.com/forum/discussion/65064/research-experimentISO any and all Silver Pocket Watches!
God grant me the hbs to buy the ponies I need,
The fortitude to resist the shiny ones I truly don't,
And the wisdom to know there will always be more next time. -
Thanks for posting that @Lallyhop -- I was going to but forgot. It's suuuuper interesting.
I was thinking of moving my "keep for show" limit to higher PT levels, but now I'm not going to. There is definitely a benefit to keeping a range of PT in your show barn! (As some of the veteran players have been saying all this time. But now there's proof!) -
Lol, yes! Nice to have their wise advice in concrete numbers :))
My criteria for keeping show horses is pretty simple: I base it off how much they're making vs how much it costs to show them, once they've leveled off. If they're making more than they cost, they stay! If I start running out of room, I may up the margin of profit, but I'd honestly just rather get another barn than cull what I've got, at least for now. It'll probably be later that I start increasing the margin. :DISO any and all Silver Pocket Watches!
God grant me the hbs to buy the ponies I need,
The fortitude to resist the shiny ones I truly don't,
And the wisdom to know there will always be more next time.Thanked by 1TrueBlueHorses -
Thanks guys for all that info!
Just Another question about Breeding Inspection, what should be the basic requirement/cut-off mark for each generation?"A stud designed to breed horses suitable for the High Country, the Show Ring, and anything this Great Southern land throws in its way"
ID: 21614 -
That’s a difficult question to answer, because everyone has different standards. When starting from C/yellow, most people require B/red at second. Some require A and blue/red 3rd gen, some are happy with B/red 3rd gen. Some are even happy with 4th gen B/red if they pass SBA and have most or all of the desired genes.
For me personally, this is my requirements
Foundation: C/yellow
Second: B/red
Third: B/red passed SBA and must have a copy of DP
Fourth: A/Blue unless hom DP and any other desired genes, then I will allow red paper mares
Fifth: must be A/Blue
All of my horses must pass SBA, I also comp test colts and only keep STS.
It gets harder when you bring outside bred horses though, because there is no guarantee the horse has passed SBA (some don’t have access, some just don’t use it on certain genes). -
Also breeding inspection is free for altered stock. If I’m looking to save money I will run all the free breeding advice testing and cheaper testing (gene and PT) so I can cull as many as I can and then run Inspections to paper what’s left over. Then do a final comparison test and cull.
Papering runs C-B-A-Star for boys with star being the best you can get.
Yellow, red, blue- gold for the mares.
To get more intacts paring yellow/C, red/ B, blue/A, gold/star works best.
Also I’m one of the players that’s been here forever and knows the value of a show horse. I would much rather skip a breeding season and buy a bigger barn than only breed a few foals and have no room for more. Eventually those show horses will start to pay you to buy a new barn for them.
My horses on each server pretty much earn enough of a profit that I can go buy another 1000 stall barn (plus inflation) by the time I fill the last one along with unlimited breeding of all my horses and as much testing as my heart desires.
On HJ1 I’ve been actively working at REDUCING my daily show bonus while putting a cap on buying new barns for my show horses. As I was making over 325k per day in bonuses and it would only take me less than 3 days of the 2 month year to earn enough to breed and test all my horses. Even if I started with the most expensive testing. After roll over I was down to 168k/day. I’ve also listed several hundred horses for sale to make room in the show barns so have not looked to see how much more of a hit the daily bonus took this week. -
Basically I would think to have a quality breeding program you'd like to see improvement in each generation. The actual values would depend on how strict you want to be.
Very achievable without being too strict is;
Gen1/Foundations - C/B and/or Yellow/Red
Gen2 - B/Red, with some A/Blues. Personally I require most of my B's from C sires to still be a higher B. But it costs quite a bit in comparison testing to find those best ones
Gen3 - All A/Blue. If something has special genes, and/or I don't have many blues for that Era that I will often keep a few red mares. All A stallions though. This isn't hard to achieve as long as the gen2 stallions were superior to sire
Gen4 - A/Blue (I'd expect higher A/Blues but can be hard to work out with mares), if you started with some B/Red foundations you might see an occasional Star/Gold at 4th gen too
Gen5 - Very possible to be all Star/Gold, I still keep quite a few blue mares though unless I go on a culling spree!
Gen6 onwards all should be Star/Gold, anything else really is quite poor quality
You can also work it out on AFPT (average foal PT), personally I rarely do as I then have to open up every mare picture to update the AFPT. The paper levels are accurate enough for me. AFPT is useful when I have simply too many mares within a certain generation, they are all the same paper and I want to cull numbers! The actual PT of a horses tells you nothing about their breeding ability, but it does help indicate the breeding ability of their sire/dam
I do like every single sire to be superior to sire, or at least better than my benchmark from previous generation, some I have higher exceptions than just superior to sire, so they meet my requirements for that generation, especially for lower generations.
It's going to be very hard to improve quality without using the Breeding Inspection, and Comparison test. The comparisons tests to get a superior sire are useful too, in that their foals are going to have to be almost as good as them to pass SBA, then helps cull the lower quality foals.
The more strict you are, the less intact foals you'll have of course, especially with the range in each paper level and mares not being as good as stallions. So if you prefer your quality to improve a bit more slowly just adjust the numbers to what suits you better.
Hope that helps!Thanked by 1TrueBlueHorses -
Is there any difference between BA and SBA?
Because I generally only use BA and only use SBA when I have to many colts and/or stallions produced or in one generation.
Should I only BA G1 and G2, and SBA G3 onwards, or only use SBA on all horses born in my breeding program?"A stud designed to breed horses suitable for the High Country, the Show Ring, and anything this Great Southern land throws in its way"
ID: 21614 -
If you want to improve quality quickly then use SBA as to pass they have to be at least as good as their parents whereas BA they can be a little worse.
If you keep doing what your doing although maybe use a little more SBA to keep costs down you only have to paper those that make it through the restrictions you already have in place then you don't have to test them all.Thanked by 1TrueBlueHorses -
SBA will result in a lower intact rate though, so if you want more foals to keep and are ok if they might be slightly lower quality, use BA - if you want to be strict on quality and don't mind getting fewer intact foals, use SBA.Thanked by 1TrueBlueHorses
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I'd do the opposite TrueBlue, I'd SBA your Foundations, and gen2/gen3, but after that maybe just BA. You'll get more intacts in the earlier generations because mare and stallion quality are closer, so you can afford to let those worst ones go. You are going to find it hard to improve quality if the majority of your foals are worse than sire/dam, using SBA means at least the foals are almost as good as their sire/dam. If you don't want to improve quality with each generation, then just BA is fine, you'll get more intacts and the quality will float along probably roughly the same level
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This is a great thread! Loads to learn hereStill fumbling around this awesome game :)
I want to make a line of Grullo Splash Appaloosa Rabicano, any help would be appreciated :)
ID 47350Thanked by 1Dinascar -
I love reading everyone's ideas on things like this.
I sba everything and I used to auction anything that didn't pass - made some money on the foals because I always breed in pastures and only papered those that pass sba. Once I got money, I bought more barns (I was always broke for the first 12 months of playing) and gradually kept more and more of those altered show ponies.
Now, as long as I don't do too much GMTing, I have enough money every season to do all my breeding and buy 2 or 3 more 210 barns. :) -
I also auction everythign that doesn't meet my 'keep' standards (I have both breeding standards and only keep spelded stock with PTs of 10.5 or more, just because I don't have room for everything!).
The ultimate goal is to be able to buy 1000 stall barns and keep everything, but right now I've still never been even able to afford 1 1000 stall barn lol. -
Well, I'm about three months shy of my one-year hjaversary and so my breeding program is not that far along but this is what I've been doing with my stock. Minus my bootstrap herd because obviously, they have different rules.
Everything is sent through SBA with the very rare exception of really special horses (those that I only have a single straw for/get one breeding or have really fancy genes) those are sometimes sent through BA instead. My foundation horses are a mix of Yellow/Red mares and C/B stallions. I usually keep to breeding Yellow/C and Red/B but, if they have full pasture bonus, I'll sometimes breed yellow studs to red mares and I've had a decent number of intact foals out of those crossings.
Second Gen: Pass SBA, Red/B or Blue/A papered. Studs must be STS and have the genes I want for that line.
Third Gen: Pass SBA, Mares should be Blue but I'll keep Red too since I don't have a ton of G3 yet. Studs need to be STS and paper B/A or better.
Fourth Gen: (I've just barely started here) I still SBA everything, Mares need to be Blue/Gold. Studs need to be STS and A/Star.
Fifth and beyond?: Not here yet but I'd assume I'll keep on my same track of STB and aiming for all Gold mares but assuming some Blue will stay as well. Hopefully studs will Star and STS.
This is just basic culling for me as far as keeping horses, assuming they pass all this I then look at color/genes, bone weight, and other factors as to if they stay in my breeding program, get snipped for the show string, or sent off to auction/sold. As I get more mares into each of my lines I get pickier and pickier with what they need to have to stick around otherwise I get overwhelmed and get far too many foals each year and not enough space to keep them all.ID: 40723Thanked by 1wendolyne -
For me personally...
Foundation: B studs. Red mares. I do play with some het snf mares who are yellow and an occasional C stud but I don't generally like to.
G2: A studs over 10.5PT. Blue mares over 10.5PT. But I will keep lower if I like them or the line. I only use this to reduce my keeper numbers. I don't have housing for everything and it helps me trim down the keepers. Exception would be B paper stud & Red mares on specialty genes that I play with for now until my numbers increase.
G3: ALL must be A or Blue. I have one mare I play with that's red but only because she is hom snf and hom kp with dp and she breeds well with A so I figure she's a high red. I like to have my G3 over 10.8PT.
G4: 11PT, A or Star (preferred), Blue or Gold (preferred).
G5: 11PT+ Star & Golds. I will keep a couple who lag but have been selling everything recently who doesn't test as high.
I only use studs who test Superior to Sire unless the line is exceptionally advanced. I use SBA on everything unless they're super special.
Again as mentioned PT has nothing to do with breeding ability. I just like to see higher PT high paper combo. I sell everything else. I hand cull anything that may have passed but is lagging the line.ID# 24891
Specializing In G1-G7 WBs:
Appaloosa/Leopard Apps, Pearl, Thunderstruck, Watercolor, Snowflake, Kit Promoter (KP), Kit M, Ice, Satin, Nexus, Sooty+, Dense Pheomelanin (DP), Chinchilla, Mushroom, and Wrong Warp.Thanked by 1wendolyne -
@RubyJoFarm Any chance I could get an egg from that snf/kp/dp mare in question this year or next?ISO any and all Silver Pocket Watches!
God grant me the hbs to buy the ponies I need,
The fortitude to resist the shiny ones I truly don't,
And the wisdom to know there will always be more next time. -
The g3? It'd have to be next season but yes absolutely. I will be mass flushing her again.ID# 24891
Specializing In G1-G7 WBs:
Appaloosa/Leopard Apps, Pearl, Thunderstruck, Watercolor, Snowflake, Kit Promoter (KP), Kit M, Ice, Satin, Nexus, Sooty+, Dense Pheomelanin (DP), Chinchilla, Mushroom, and Wrong Warp.Thanked by 1Lallyhop -
Awesome!ISO any and all Silver Pocket Watches!
God grant me the hbs to buy the ponies I need,
The fortitude to resist the shiny ones I truly don't,
And the wisdom to know there will always be more next time.